Now starts the boat’s actual
building process. I have decided that I’m going to strip build this boat with
cypress that will be edge glued. Many builders like to use the canoe cove and
bead process but I found that it’s an extra step that really isn’t necessary.
Edge gluing the strips works great as long as each strip is secured to each
station mold and has additional clamps to assist as needed. The cypress strips
are 5/16 inches by 1 inch wide. My lumber is in various lengths of 10 – 12 feet
so I’ll need to scarf these strips. To assist in the scarfing process I built
an eight to one scarf jig that fit on my mobile stationary disc sander. This worked
really well and aided in the scarfing process. All of my cypress lumber was
rough cut and needed to be planed prior to cutting the strips. After the
planing was completed I jointed one edge of each board to acquire a true edge.
Then I made a ‘run out ‘sled for my table saw and ripped the 5/16 inch strips.
This can be a tedious process so to prevent any machine errors; I only cut 18
strips at a time. Of course my shop buddy Gunther, our standard poodle was on
hand for moral support.
Once the strip situation was
solved it was time to think about building the transom. I purchased a piece of
mahogany with these dimensions; 5/4 x 7.5 x 13ft. @ a cost of $6.95 per board
foot or $88.88. I then cut the board in half and edge glued the two pieces together
with epoxy to form the transom. On cutting out the transom, sanding the
surfaces and edges I took a suggestion from one of the other Melonseed builders
and fiber glassed the inside surface of the transom for added strength. The
difficult part of the transom was cutting the beveled top edge to meet that
profile of station mold # 12. So I measured and then measured again and went
ahead and cut the bevel. As it turned out the bevel was perfect on the sides
but a bit short on the lower area of the transom, so I decided to just fill
these areas with thickened epoxy as I went through the building process. The
next step was to place, level and attach the transom to the boat mold. I thus
made several supports to align the transom to station mold # 12 and to conform
to the sheer of the boat.
Begin an old fashioned builder type I than went ahead and started building a keelson for the boat. The plans called for a ½ inch piece of plywood to be attached to both the transom and that of the stem, thus stabilizing the boat molds. Not wanting to use plywood I purchased a piece of clear white pine with the dimensions of 4/4 x 11 x 12 feet for $16. Then I made a 4/4 x 2 x 14 foot keelson to join the transom and the stem. To attach the keelson to each station mold I glued small 2 x 2 x 4 inch blocks to each station mold and attached the keelson to these blocks with ¼ inch carriage bolts. I guess some of my building friends would say that this was ‘overkill’ but I must tell you the building form was extremely ridged and completely aligned on all angles.
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